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Parente's

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

The over-sized provincial wall clock at Parente's is certainly eye-catching but don't be surprised if its ornate hands have done the rounds by the time you leave. This is partly due to the service - the staff are so attentive and obliging, you can't help but to settle in, stretch your legs and loosen your belt. The menu also causes departure delays for all the right reasons. Even those one-course-wonders may witness themselves extending their visit (and tummy) into three-course-heaven. “Someone” scared herself with the contemplation of a fourth course - a second dessert of sticky date slice, served warm with silky butterscotch sauce. The fresh strawberry and mint garnish doubles as a palate cleanser.

Chef Gracie Parente's salt and pepper squid is beautifully soft and surprises with a sweet kick, courtesy of the roasted capsicum and honey mustard vinaigrette. She and fellow chef, George Pancione, produce prime veal dishes such as the scallopini Oscar. Its grain-fed flesh is pan-fried in butter and melts just like it in your mouth. Three plump prawns and spring onions rest on top in a white wine cream sauce. Garlic spinach can be found in an entree dish with white onion - this simple flavour combination is a winner - while a starter of schiacciata satisfies with its pizza bread spread of olive tapenade, anchovies, fresh basil, parmesan and salty prosciutto. Proprietor, Tony Parente, assures me the seafood platter is to die for but hopefully this isn't the case because then that same “someone” will miss out on his equally sublime home-made coffee gelati.

Roz Taylor, April 2008